Porto, Portugal Edition, June 2023, updated August 2024

Why Porto?

My wife Patricia and I visited Porto for the first time in 2017 and quickly became enamoured with this unique Southern European city which reminded us initially of 2 of our favourite cities – Prague and Istanbul as well as any city with a large ocean like vista with beautiful sunsets. Porto has a colourful and rich history on full display in its central UNESCO old town, which is simultaneously strangely mysterious and intensely vibrant, filled with bustling life and centuries-old dilapidated but beautiful tile-faced buildings, many being brought to new life through reconstruction. As the saying goes “We loved it so much we bought an apartment here”, and we now spend time each year based in our Porto pied à terre located in the historic centre!

By way of introduction to our personal biases in making recommendations, we generally love interesting historical and contemporary architecture, beautiful topography and vistas, ocean and river views, great food and dining experiences – especially with great views and places where the locals are welcoming and easy to communicate with. We are just as happy with simple local inexpensive places as well as those higher end foodie places, as long as the food is great and the staff welcoming and of course great value for money.

So, here are some of our favourite things to do in Porto. We have tried all of the places we are recommending below and would actually be prepared to visit again and again! We have not received any incentives to recommend any of the places we are recommending.

Walking is the best way to discover and enjoy Porto

Walking in Porto is an adventure of constant discovery, and the hills and winding streets transform a simple excursion into great exercise that helps work off the “natas” and other delicious Porto foods.

I start off with an enchanting walk to the Douro River (Ribeira), then to the ocean

If you plan your walk in the afternoon you will be able to enjoy the sun as it sets in the West over the ocean at Foz (a charming oceanside neighbourhood located just to the West of Porto right along the ocean). In case you don’t want the added benefit of a good workout by walking the whole way you can hop on the vintage trolley streetcar or even jump on electronic scooters that are available along the route. My son tells me that “Bolt” is his preferred scooter brand.

If you start at Clerigos Tower (right next to our apartment) and walk down Caldereiros street (behind the Starbucks) and then turn right on Flores street, you can keep walking downhill until you get to the riverfront with its cafes and beautiful views of Gaia and the Port wine warehouses across the river.

From the central Porto riverfront, you can walk all along the Douro River until you get to Foz (about an hour and a half walking at a nice pace). Along the way you will see many interesting sites and there are cafés and restaurants if you feel like stopping (as we often do) to take in some of the local food and drink and enjoy the beautiful waterfront views. One we really like is called eleven lab where they make great tasting and refreshing smoothies (nice on a hot day) and other brunch like items. You will pass the impressive Arrabida Bridge and immediately after the bridge there is a wonderful Italian restaurant called Casa D’Oro in a very interesting 1960s industrial building perched right along the Douro River (see below for more information).

As you continue walking towards Foz you will eventually start to see the ocean come into view. After passing a fortress castle you will be able to walk out on a pier to a lighthouse and then you arrive in Foz. In Foz we like to go to a bakery café called Tavi which offers light fare and great pastries in a casual upscale atmosphere. If you time your Tavi visit in the afternoon you will see spectacular ocean views with the sun setting in the West since the café faces the ocean with a closed terrace and an upper open small terrace.

Walking Tour of Porto with Sara Mello

Sara is a licensed guide who knows everything about Porto and surrounding attractions and towns including the Douro wine region. We recommend a wonderful 2-4-hour walking tour of old Porto tracing the history and presence of the communities before and after the inquisition of the late 1400s. We have done the tour twice already and would do it again. Contact Sara Mello to book at saraargel@gmail.com. Let Sara know Robert recommended.

Bolhao Market

The Bolhao Market is a beautiful heritage market building that has been completely reconstructed and is a 15-minute walk from the Clerigos Tower. This is where we stock up on the freshest fruits and vegetables (mostly sourced from Portugal or Spain), cheese, nuts, dried fruit, olives, fresh flowers and more. A number of high quality and affordable restaurants have opened on the second level of the Bolhao market. They represent a variety of traditional Portuguese cuisine options. We tried a wonderful vegetarian restaurant called Casa Vegetariana as well as the fresh fish restaurant called Peixe no Mercado where you can see and pickt he fish before it's grilled.

Right next to the Bolhao Market is a Manteigueria Nata Factory and Café (great place for coffee, fresh baked natas with a casual light all day menu).

Port wine experiences in Porto – Gaia

We love going to the roof of the Porto Cruz building in Gaia (across the river from Porto Ribeira area along the river) which gives you some great tasting options and awesome views – day and night – of Porto. It’s easy to get across the river by walking across the beautiful iron heritage bridge called the Dom Luis bridge (there is debate as to whether it was designed by a student of Gustav Eiffel).

The View Spots AKA ‘Miradors’, and there are many…

You can find many great views in Porto. For example, we would recommend Rooftop Flores, a 5-minute walk from the Clerigos Tower. Here you can have a drink or snack and take in a beautiful view of the Se (main church of Porto) and surrounding area. Or check out Mirador da Vitoria – around a 7 minute walk from the Clerigos Tower.

Walking along the top of Dom Luis I Bridge after visiting the Se Church (well worth the visit but try to avoid Sundays) provides an exhilarating view over the Douro River of Porto and Gaia. The Vincci Ponte de Ferro Hotel offers some beautiful terrace café/restaurants options with stunning views of the bridge and beyond.

The garden of Palacio de Cristal is a 20-minute walk from the apartment and has a large, beautiful park with stunning views down the Douro.

Dining experiences – and there are many to choose from

There are many great restaurants in Porto, with more opening all the time. If you like dining "al fresco" you are in luck as there are so many restaurants offering outdoor dining… all year long!

Casual Options

Casa Doro – one of our favourites, this restaurant is not often frequented by tourists since it is just off the beaten path, situated in a modernist building built in the 1960’s, just next to the Arrabida bridge and perched along the river front. The building was built to help workers during the construction of the bridge and was subsequently repurposed into an Italian restaurant offering two levels of casual dining, one level of fine dining, and outdoor terraces with stunning views. We recommend the truffle (tartufo) pizza, Caprese salad, minestrone soup and, if you’re in the mood, a Proseco with passion fruit beverage or Port Tonic. Casa Doro is not expensive and it’s always fun to visit.

Da Terra – an all you can eat restaurant exclusively offering delicious vegetarian foods, with take away also possible. It’s affordable and the selection is always changing and open for lunch and dinner.

Mercador – a casual breakfast, brunch and lunch restaurant located on a popular pedestrian street. Friendly service, affordable and delicious food, and was highlighted in the Monocle book of Portugal.

Manteigueria – absolutely the best natas in Porto, with a few locations including one on Clerigos street (right across the street from our apartment). When you hear the bell, you know the natas are hot out of the oven, and we can always look over our terrace to see if there is a line up or not. We just run down and bring back our warm natas and enjoy with the stunning postcard views from the apartment terrace.

Malvon Empanadas – (Rua de Mouzinho de Silveira 145) a chain around Porto that is an Argentinian concept with a large variety of meat and vegetarian freshly-baked empanadas. Great when you want something lighter and quick and great for take out.

McDonalds Ribeira – strange as it may seem to see this on our list of favourites, the McDonalds Ribeira location has a stunning terrace overlooking the river towards the Gaia port houses and is a great place for a snack or ice cream while you take in the view.

Amorino Ice Cream – an Italian gelato chain with several locations around Porto, including two very close to the apartment. You can choose as many of their delicious flavours as you wish in your cone or cup.

Honest Greens – casual salad / healthy food offerings located on the Santa Catarina pedestrian shopping mall and they have recently opened a second location closer to the apartment at Jose Falcao 219.

Maseira Bakery – a wonderful artisanal bakery serving delicious organic sourdough breads, Maseira was featured in the Monocle Portugal book. Our favourite is the “seed” bread which we always call “super seed”. The bakery is owned by a Adriana and Benedita, and Adriano is often there and happy to talk with clients.

Tavi Café – located in the neighbourhood of Foz along the ocean. They serve a casual menu with delicious desserts and one of the most beautiful views around, right out to the ocean. Try to get there in the afternoon so you can see the sun reflecting on the ocean as the waves come crashing in.

Pedro dos Frangos- (rua do Bonjardim 223) Our favourite place to buy delicious Rotisserie BBQ Chicken cooked over a spit and charcoal with amazing fresh fries (batatas). We usually go for the take out option and it is fantastic value and always served quickly.

French Fries Factory (Rua do Bonjardim 302) - this is a new addition to my "regulars" list. They serve delicious authentic german style "currywurst" street food and homemade delicious fresh cut fries and homemade sauces. The combination is perfect and authentically prepared and served by Jan who passionately brings this authentic (and affordable) experience to Porto from Germany.

Time Out Market - next to the Sao Bento Train station. This is a very new addition to the Porto dining scene and is well worth one or more visits. It's a beautiful space designed by Porto's leading architects and engineers and features some of Porto's best known chefs and restaurants.

Praia da Luz, Fox (Avenida do Brasil - along the beach)

If you want to feel a South of France or Rio vibe with a casual restaurant with a lively bar this is the place for you. It's located in Foz right along the ocean and below the street (so it can be a little hidden)

Movenpick ice cream. Another new addition from Switzerland serving up exceptional quality ice cream that is brought in from Switzerland. There are two locations - we have tried them both multiple times! In Porto Rua Mouzinho da Silveira 218. This location is about 10 minutes from the apartment and the hills up and down makes you feel less guilty! A second location is in Foz along the ocean at Avenida Brasil 270.

Fine Dining Options

Puro – located right in the heart of old town Porto in one of the most beautiful squares, Puro is a Mozzarella Bar serving hearty Italian fare with a great terrace and lovely staff.

Reitoria & Habitat – these are two restaurants are owned by the same group. Reitoria is located near the famous Lello Bookstore (just around the corner) and Habitat (featured in Monocle book) is a stunning space that is located closer to the ocean neighbourhood of Foz (if you do the riverside walk to Foz described above you will pass in front of Habitat).

ODE ($$) – located along the historic riverfront in Porto offers charming and historic fine dining.

Casa Cha Boa Nova ($$$$) – a Michelin 2-star restaurant located North of Porto along the coast near the suburb of Matosinhos, a place famous for its fresh seafood restaurants. This restaurant is run by one of Portugal’s most famous chefs, Rui Paula, and is housed in a famous mid-century building that was designed by Pritzker winning architect Alvaro Siza Vieira. This restaurant was also featured in the Monocle Portugal book.

Semea by Euskalduna ($$$) – along the riverfront between Porto and Foz, Semea features a beautiful terrace with views of the river and wonderful grilled meat options cooked on their own wood fired outdoor stove.

Douro Valley – wineries and restaurants

Quinta Casa Amarela, Lamego Portugal (Douro Valley) (+351-254-666-200)– This is a family-owned Quinta we visited several times and were fortunate to be hosted by the owner, Gil (5th generation, I believe).  Quinta da Casa Amarela is in the Douro Wine Region Valley, the oldest Demarcated Wine Region in the world and production is based on Port Wine and DOC Douro Wine. Reservations are necessary and you can visit the Quinta, learn about Port wine and sample wonderful Port and Douro wines.

There is a charge per person, and you can also buy some bottles to take home. Let Gil know Robert sent you.

Aneto & Table – A charming restaurant located at Peso da Regua close to Quinta Casa Amarela owned by a family that runs another Quinta. Lunch is casual and delicious, but as there are only a limited number of tables so reservations are required.

DOC ($$$) – if you’re looking for a stunning high-end restaurant experience then Michelin star chef Rui Paula’s DOC is for you. It is in a stunning contemporary building with lovely large terrace right along the Douro River. It is expensive and reservations are recommended.

Six Senses Hotel and Spa. Located a few minutes from Quinta Casa Amarela this is a very high end and expensive resort but we went for an afternoon coffee after the visit to the Quinta and really enjoyed the views and experience without the sticker shock!

Shopping

The nicest in-town shopping area is the pedestrian street Santa Catarina with mainstream and local shops. If you are looking for more artisanal shops and beautiful cafes, head to Flores. Porto is a great place to shop for great quality shoes, clothing, olive oil, soaps and decorative and artisanal items made in Portugal. Check that the item is made in Portugal.

Vista Allegre – a famous Portuguese tableware and gift manufacturer with beautiful and unique dishes, ceramics, and crystal. One of the company-owned stores is located around the corner from the apartment as you walk towards the Lello bookstore.

Burel – a store specializing in wool and flannel products (blankets, scarves, clothing) that are made in their famous factory in the Estrela region.

Casa Lima - Founded in 1877 and in the same family for 5 generations - a great place to buy leather handbags and leathergoods - a traditional Porto store that has stood the test of time. We always look for goods made in Portugal as they are great quality and usually great value. There are three locations and the one we are most familiar with is located at Rua Rodrigues Sampaio 186.

Parfois is a Porto based fashion company with over 1000 retail locations in Europe and  South America.  The concept is fast fashion with a focus on trendy accessories, fashion, jewellery, luggage and more at incredible prices.  There is a location on Clerigos street right down the street from the apartment.

Souvenir shops.  There are many souvenir shops all over Porto.  We always try to shop at souvenir and artisanal shops that feature authentic Portuguese products exclusively and also try to support local Portuguese store owners where possible.  One of our favourites is located very close to the riverfront at #7-9 Rua de Alfandega and is owned by a Madeira family with great Portuguese handicrafts and souvenirs.  The owner is Hugo and if he is there say that Robert from Canada referred you.

Sights

Parque de Serralves – Contemporary art museum and private park grounds including original art deco residence (and gallery). The contemporary wing was designed by Pritzker award winning architect Alvaro Siza Viera. The art deco residence which is open for exhibitions is a beautifully preserved art deco masterpiece and the gardens are extensive and stunning. Try the unique Treetops walk experience for a different vantage point on the surroundings.

Livrario Lello Bookstore – apparently inspired JK Rowling when she lived in Porto and began the Harry Potter stories. Every day you will see people lined up for hours to gain access and you need to purchase an entry ticket which is refunded if you buy a book in the store. Go online and buy your ticket online for a specific time, as it will help to shorten the waiting time. If you have limited time in Porto I would recommend just walking by the front entrance and looking in and not spend the time waiting in line to gain access.

Clerigos Church – if you are up for it, climb the scenic tower, as the views from the high point of Porto are breathtaking. This baroque church also hosts a wonderful evening light and music show inside the church itself called the Spiritus light show. You need to buy tickets ahead of time - you can buy a combined ticket and I would suggest you book the first time possible for the tower climb so you can access before it gets too busy as the staircase is quite narrow. You can buy these tickets online by clicking here. The climb is really worth it especially on a clear day. For the Spiritus light show I recommend you get to the show 20 minutes early and then try to sit as far back as possible so you can fully enjoy the light show and help save your neck.

Sao Bento train station – Even if you are not traveling anywhere by train make sure you pop into the magnificent Sao Bento train station located near Aliados and Clerigos streets. The tile work is stunning and tells the story of Porto’s history. Apparently the train station also helped inspire J.K. Rowling’s Harry Potter stories.

Stained Glass Museum – is located next to the Se church and is a private and charming museum.

Santa Clara church. This beautiful ornate church which is located near the Se and the top of the Dom Luis bridge is well worth a visit.

Services

Laundry & Lockers laundry service - rua do Bonjardim 386. About a 10 minute walk from the apartment this is our go to place when we need anything laundry. They can wash, fold press any clothing in addition to self service. They can also arrange pickup and delivery if you call them. +351-91-286-8585

Additional Resources

• Monocle book on Portugal

• Porto Gateway to the world

Our apartments on Airbnb - 82 Rua dos Clerigos

We own two penthouse loft apartments, located within a reconstructed heritage tile-faced building from the 1800s right next to the Clerigos Tower and Church. Both feature natural light, cathedral ceilings, private covered terraces with postcard views over Porto. Both are fully equipped with the latest equipment and modern conveniences including soundproof windows and doors, stunning marble bathroom, fully equipped kitchen, air conditioning, fibre internet, smart TV's and an elevator from the 1st floor.

Air BnB Listing links below

Apartment 1 – 4D

Here is a link to a great Tik Tok video created by one of our guests.

We hope you enjoy your time in Porto – Obrigado!

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact me at RobertTimelessTraveler@gmail.com